There are some labels in the fashion industry that go to extreme lengths to ensure that the products they are offering consumers are as ethical as possible. My most recent discovery of a brand of this kind is Wild Tussah, a grass roots label creating high quality products with great care and respect for all involved in the production process, from artisan to customer.
As stated proudly on their website, “Wild Tussah was started with one idea in mind; to preserve traditional weave cultures through art and design for our modern day world.”
On receiving my gorgeous Day to Night bag in the post and removing it from it’s protective canvas bag, it was clear that this product has a story to tell. So I asked Danica, Wild Tussah’s Sustainable Fashion Designer and Founder, to answer a few questions.
What is the story of the Day to Night bag, from how you selected the artisans to how it is made?
The Day to Night bag was designed to incorporate a Lu weave I found in Saigon. When I first came across the weave, I didn’t know who made it. All I knew was that I had never seen such an elegant pattern. Usually we would choose the artisans first and then pick from the traditional weaves that they make, but in this case the weave drew me in and made me want to learn more.
I only found out later after trying to source more of the weave that it was from Lu people. I was informed this after I contacted my Black Hmong friend, Mao, in Sapa, Vietnam for help. She showed some of her friends photos of the weaves when she met up with them at the local market on the weekends. There are approximately 54 minorities in Vietnam who have many various weaving techniques, so you can understand the difficulty in identifying patterns. Finally, one day an elder remembered seeing the weave before.
Lu people are a very remote and reclusive group who live in isolated mountainous areas around Sapa. They traditionally dye their teeth black, making them very distinct. Their weaves are both woven and embroidered and are completed no sooner than 3-6 months! It is integrated in their traditional skirts, which they typically only sell after being used since it takes so long to make.
After finding Lu weaves, I knew The Day to Night Bag had to be streamlined and clean to act as a backdrop for the weave. I wanted the bag to be practical and versatile for a woman who is on the go. We went through many different designs, tweaking it until it provided the right amount of options and durability whilst keeping the weave prominent.
On your website you talk about sharing the stories of the weavers. Why is this important to you and how do you go about sharing these stories?
The artisan stories are important because they breathe life into the weaves and give purpose to the bags. The stories allow us to connect to the women and appreciate the amount of work and skill it takes to create the textiles. When you understand what their process is it makes it a lot more rewarding to use.
We get these stories by sitting down with the artisans and taking the time to get to know them. Khuê and I, Wild Tussah’s Admin Assistant and Translator, went on a 3-day trip to My Nghiep Cham Village to learn about the weaves we would be incorporate in our upcoming tote bag. We interviewed a few of the weavers and learned how they spend their day maintaining the rice fields and weaving when they have time. They have families to take care of, just like any of us, and teach their daughters these techniques that have been passed down many generations.
Why is it important to you to work with people who are passionate about their craft?
We choose to collaborate with only people who love what they do because their enthusiasm and passion ends up showing through their work. Passionate people tend to put extra care into their craft and can share in the joy of creating a beautiful handbag with us.
Are all the woven pieces traditional designs?
All weaves that we incorporate at Wild Tussah are traditional designs unique to each minority. While some weavers do offer to do custom designs, our sole purpose is to preserve and not change their traditions.
Why is sustainability important and what does it mean to you?
There are many different definitions of sustainability; all just as important to our environment and communities. At Wild Tussah, we come from a social standpoint where we place huge importance on product development transparency, the effects of fast fashion on people and connecting the consumer to the maker. I think the Rana Plaza catastrophe in 2013 woke us up and made us realize that we can and should demand our brands to focus on how our products are made and the lives that are affected. We deserve high-quality products, and the ones making them deserve fair compensation.
When I was travelling in South and Central America, I saw a similar shift as you have seen in Asia – modernisation (in the way of machine made products) decreasing the demand for traditionally made items, teamed with an increasing cost of living. Have you noticed much determination to keep the traditional weaving techniques alive, and if so, within which age brackets?
I have noticed that there is a decline in tradition preservation amongst the younger generation; 30 years and under. A lot more of the younger generation have to move to the closest city to provide for their families. I believe, though, with the increase in slow fashion demand we will see a switch in priorities. When there is an economic incentive and demand for eco-tourism and eco-fashion, the younger generation can turn these demands into positive forms of work for their community. I’ve seen this from several young people I know.
For instance my friend, Mao from Sapa, Vietnam, works for a company called Sapa Sisters. They put together treks with Black Hmong ladies who take you through rice fields and villages whilst explaining their cultural traditions. I think this is one of the most beautiful forms of tourism; where a visitor takes away new insight without leaving a mark on the environment.
Another person trying to preserve their culture is a young guy called Jaka; a Cham tour guide I met in My Nghiep Village. He still wears traditional clothes and provides language lessons for anyone who wants to learn Cham.
What products do you currently have available and what does the future hold for Wild Tussah?
Currently we have 6 different Lu weaves available on The Day to Night bag. In a couple of weeks we will be launching our Cham Tote which will have 5 different Cham weaves.
In the future, we hope to expand the weaving communities we work with and move to new areas of the world. We also see our bag designs evolving along with our customer.
Many of us want to make more ethical and sustainable choices, but sometimes it’s hard to find a sustainable version of what we need. Do you have any tips for how consumers can find more ethical options?
I can completely relate to the struggle of finding high-quality and sustainable fashion that also incorporates beautiful design. I also understand the struggle of changing our shopping habits.
Therefore, I recommend to first start with small changes so that it doesn’t seem impossible. For instance when you buy gifts for friends or family, avoid shopping mass manufacturing brands and check out sustainable brands online. Technology is making it much easier to go directly to the artisans who are creating these goods in traditional ways. You will be surprised by the amount of options out there. A few sustainable brands that I love are People Tree, Zady, Amour Vert, Threads 4 Thought and Raven and Lily. Also, Etsy is a great platform that provides many handmade options.
Once you get into the routine of checking out sustainable brands, you will become familiar with their products and remember them the next time you need a new white t-shirt or that one-of-a-kind dress for a special occasion.
The key is to start changing your habits little by little, and before you know it you are well on your way to a sustainable lifestyle.
Thanks so much for your time Danica. I can’t wait to see what the future holds for Wild Tussah.
